How you can Make a Wooden Cutting Board in 6 Actions

This project is often a fantastic one for cooks who want a long-lasting butcher block cutting board that will not warp over time or move as they use it. An added bonus may be the curved notch at one end that makes it possible for you to scrape food in the cutting board straight into your bowl. Get extra information and facts about what is Board Butter

Step 1: Determine on the design, dimensions and components you'll be using for your cutting board. Assemble the needed tools and components. Because you'll be using many power tools, be sure to wear safety glasses. Also, have a face mask for when you sand the cutting board.

Step 2: Assemble the butcher block. Cut three 17-inch lengths of 2-inch thick clear maple on the miter saws. NOTE: These are straight cuts, not miter cuts.

Alternate the wood grain by flipping the middle board over so that its grain runs counter for the outer two boards. Apply wood glue to the edges of your board where they are going to join. Clamp them collectively while the glue dries.

Step 3: Smooth the butcher block. Use a belt sander to flatten the cutting board surface so there is certainly no noticeable ridge/transition from board to board. To do this, initially move the sander across the boards inside a diagonal motion. When the transition is smooth, sand using the grain along the length from the boards.

Switch to a random orbit sand and to progressively finer grades of sand paper till the surface of the cutting board has no discernible texture.

Trim one end with the board on a table saw. Location the board in a wooden cradle that holds the wood steady as you slide it into the blade. Reduce only a thin strip off the end, to smooth the edges with the three boards you glued with each other. Establish which side on the board will likely be the leading - commonly the surface together with the a lot more eye-catching wood grain.

Step 4: Notch the cutting board. Flip the board so the bottom side faces upward and draw a semicircle at the unfinished end having a compass and pencil.

Pass the board through the band saw and cut along the semicircle tracing. Add a drum sander to your drill press and smooth away any saw marks along the curved vertical edge in the circle.

Install a rabbeting bit with ball bearing guides in your router. The bit will cut a recess in to the bottom edge from the semicircle when leaving a collar of wood on the prime surface. Turn the board bottom side up and route along the edge to form the recess. The recess will permit a bowl of a certain dimension to slide in to the board without gaps and to catch the food.

Step 5: Add legs to the chopping block. Drill four legs sockets in to the bottom in the cutting board, using a drill press. Do not drill by means of the board. Spot a socket at each and every corner around the flat end with the board, about 1/2 inch off the long and the brief sides. Align the two sockets about 1/2 inch from the extended side of the board, but inset them about two inches from the brief side to supply clearance for the semicircle and recess.

Coat the interior of the leg sockets with glue. Tap in quick wooden dowels for the legs. Make sure that the dowels are identical in length and tap them in to the exact same depth so the board will stand levelly.

Step 6: Finish the surface. Add a mineral oil coating to protect the board from food and liquids. Sand the mineral oil into the board using No. 400 wet and dry sandpaper.